Place du Tertre

Simon and I recently spent four days in Paris.  We lived on cheese, baguettes, croissants, cafe au lait and of course lots of red wine.  I wanted to share a few highlights of places to eat and drink.  We stayed in the beautiful Montmartre area and most these tips are from around there.

  • Coquelicot is a lovely place to have breakfast or to just buy a baguette or croissant.  Don’t be put off if the first floor is full.  Go up the stairs and most of the time you will succeed in getting a spot.  Their huge bowls of cafe au lait are to-die-for and we were particularly impressed with the eggs cooked in mini brioche.
  • Chez Camille is the perfect bar to enjoy a wine or beer while chatting.  The staff are super friendly, the prices are very reasonable and it is full of ‘real’ parisians as opposed to tourists…yes it is ‘authentic’ if that is what you are looking for 🙂
  • La Cave des Abbesses is a wine shop that has a wine bar at the back.  Just walk through the shop to the end and you will find a cozy room where you can buy a glass, half litre or bottle of excellent wine as well as huge plates of cheese, charcuterie and grilled vegetables.  I think two people could dine quite nicely on one of their large plates.  If you like the wine, buy a bottle or two to bring home like we did.
  • Le Relais de l’Entrecote is the place to go for steak & frites.  Their mustard sauce is famous.  We went to the original one on rue de Marboeuf.  Don’t bother going if you don’t want steak & frites because that is the only thing they serve.  You get a salad to start and then your steak & frites.  You can choose how you like it cooked and your wine and desserts.  For dessert, I recommend the profiteroles.  The place is always packed, but it is huge so be patient and you will get a seat soon enough.
  • Pierre Herme is the master of French macarons.  Don’t bother getting macarons anywhere but here and please go!  These macarons are the absolute number one thing you must have in Paris.  Yes, they aren’t cheap, but even if they were twice the price they would be worth it.  I had a dark chocolate one with creme de cassis and I nearly died while eating it on a park bench near St. Sulpice.  If there is a heaven, they will serve these macarons!

If you would like more Paris tips check out David Lebovitz or Clotilde‘s site.  They have lots of Paris culinary info.

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